Full-grain leather is the top layer of the hide with the natural grain intact: the strongest and longest-lasting, and it develops a patina. Top-grain is sanded and finished for a smoother, more uniform look, a little less durable. 'Genuine leather' is a broad label often used for lower layers. Bonded leather is made from leather scraps glued together and wears out fastest. Check edges, stitching and hardware too.
The word “leather” covers a wide range of quality. Here is how to read the labels.
Leather grades
| Grade | What it is | Look and feel | Durability |
|---|---|---|---|
| Full-grain | Top layer with natural grain intact | Natural marks, develops patina | Highest |
| Top-grain | Top layer, sanded and finished | Smooth, uniform | High |
| Genuine | Broad term, often lower layers | Varies, often coated | Moderate |
| Bonded | Leather scraps bonded with adhesive | Uniform, plasticky | Lowest |
Suede and nubuck are brushed leathers: suede from the inner side, nubuck from the outer grain. Both are soft but need protection from water.
Signs of quality
- Edges: smooth, burnished or neatly painted, not fraying.
- Stitching: tight, even and straight.
- Hardware: solid metal that feels substantial.
- Smell and feel: natural and supple rather than plasticky.
- Lining: neatly finished inside bags and wallets.
Tanning
- Vegetable-tanned: firm, ages to a rich patina.
- Chrome-tanned: softer, more water-resistant, more color options.
Care
- Wipe dust and dirt with a soft, dry cloth.
- Condition occasionally with a product made for the leather type.
- Keep away from heat and long sun exposure.
- Let wet leather dry naturally.
- Store bags stuffed with paper in a dust bag.
Common questions
Is genuine leather real leather?
Yes, but the term is often used for lower-grade layers of the hide. It is generally less durable than full-grain or top-grain leather.
What leather lasts longest?
Full-grain leather, because it keeps the strongest outer layer of the hide. It gets better with age as it develops a patina.
How do I care for leather goods?
Wipe them clean, condition occasionally with a product suited to the leather, keep them away from heat and long sun exposure, and store bags stuffed to keep their shape.